Pushpagiri - Buddhist triangle in Odisha

It was hot summer and places in Orissa were clocking pan India highest temperature. That was the time we planned to walk at the famous Buddhist triangle of Pushpagiri. Not a recommended time certainly, with rocks around and sun over the top. My next visit would again be at the best time i.e. mild winter.....

Historical Background: Buddha never seem to have visited Orissa (ealier kalinga or utkal) but two of his deciples from ukkala (must be Utkal) named Tapassu and Bhallikka were instrumental in spreading Buddhism in the region. Orissa supposed to have been influenced by Buddhism only after Ashoka (273-236 BC) when Tissa (brother of Ashoka) apparentsly selected Kalinga as his retirement place. According to Hiuen T-sang (637AD), Ashoka built 10 stupas in Wu-t`-u (odra) in the odivisa (now orissa) region. The excavations in 1981 in the Asia Hills (Ratnagiri-Udayagiri-Lalitagiri) substantiates the early existence of Buddhism in Orissa. There were many mention of a place pu-sie-p`o-k`-ili (Pushpagiri), a known odra establishment  for Buddhists during 7-8th century. Although the sites were known to scolars since 1869 AD, it came to limelight during the 1985 ASI excavations. (Courtesy: Iconography of the Buddhist Sculpture of Orissa)

Idea was to cover the whole of Pushpagiri in the Udayagiri-Ratnagiri-Lalitgiri sequence. Starting from Bhubaneswar and moving in NH5 towards Kolkata (Bhadrak-Balasore), Chandikhol is the place where we took right turn (at Balichandrapur) to move towards Paradeep. Again a left at about 12 km towards Udayagiri.

UDAYAGIRI : It is about 9 kms from the Chandikhol-Paradeep expressway to see the entry point of Udayagiri spot. Udayagiri forms the easternmost peak of the Asia range of hills Northwest of Gopalpur on the Birupa river. It is revealed that this larges buddhist complex was known as Madhavapura Mahavihara.

At the base of the terrace of the hill, is the (pic below) rock cur well well surrounded by a stone terrace with two molithic pillars at its entrance. The well (36 steps) contains an inscription incised twice on the right wall in characters of the 10th century.

Very near to the nwell the natural terrace rises up towards the peak and numerous broken images and sclpturals ruins. It is said that the magnificent doorframe is taken to Patna Museum while sculptures are present at Solapuama temple in cuttack.

This is where the Buddhist education system was flourishing (Ashoka Empire) post Kaliga War

The western side of the terrace stands the ruins of brick mounds of "Dhana Khandi" or granary of paddy.

A long stone paved pathway, votives stupa made of stone and a brick built residential complex comprising of six rooms and a courtyard to the east of the chaitya-griha along with household appliances.

There is yet another brick monastery in the complex which still remains unexcavated. Apart from the two monastery, the remains also consist of a brick stupa, a beautiful stepped stone well with inscriptions on it and rock-cut sculptures at the top of the hill behind.

RATNAGIRI: A small hill known even before its systematic excavation for its rich yield of Buddhist sculptures of the late historical period, along with that of two other hills in the neighbourhood, Lalitagiri (Naltigiri) and Udayagiri (Chanda, 1930). Ratnagiri figures in some late Tibetan texts, aIong them in the history of Buddhism in India by Taranatha .

Ratnagiri has two sites (a) Excavation site (b) Museum (closed on Friday) site. Museum again has four galleries. Gallery 1 has 9th century stone images of Buddha (Avalokitesvara, Khasarpana, Lokesvara, Manjusri, Tara ...), second gallery has stone sculpures and third gallery has small pieces of images and objects. Fourth Gallery has miscellaneous antiquities including terracotta objects.

Excavation site is one of the most talked about site with stories of deep undergraound temple (shifted), Banyan tree, Room without doors, etc.

Even though all three sites are worth visiting, Ratnagiri has the most to offer.

Must see : Take a look at the "development of Oriya script" on the wall of the museum

There is a new resort came up recently just opposite the museum. Toshali Ratnagiri Resorts (http://www.toshaliratnagiri.com/) was just inaugurated during our visit. 

LALITGIRI: This site is on the right side of the NH towards Paradeep and is the third spot for us. This also ranks third in my opinion. Slightly deserted place (may be due to the hot summer) and a long walk (could have been avoided). The attidue of the officials appeared as if they are doing favour to me (sic). 

Has a good planned appeaance

Lalitgiri has the largest stupa and also has a museum

ASI has launched a major conservation effort, and as of 2007, in the process of acquiring more land in the university's vicinity.Once fully unearthed, the site is expected to become a significant international tourist destination in India. There are other Buddhist attractions around i.e. Langudi hills, Kaima hill (unique rock-cut elephant) of Mauryan period.Some more Buddhist sites have also been discovered at Bajragiri, Sarapur and Paikrapur. The Langudi sites are perhaps the largest historic Buddhist complex in India and believed to have the right clue to the location of Pushpagiri and possibly my next destination.