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Pushpagiri - Buddhist triangle in Odisha

It was hot summer and places in Orissa were clocking pan India highest temperature. That was the time we planned to walk at the famous Buddhist triangle of Pushpagiri. Not a recommended time certainly, with rocks around and sun over the top. My next visit would again be at the best time i.e. mild winter.....

Historical Background: Buddha never seem to have visited Orissa (ealier kalinga or utkal) but two of his deciples from ukkala (must be Utkal) named Tapassu and Bhallikka were instrumental in spreading Buddhism in the region. Orissa supposed to have been influenced by Buddhism only after Ashoka (273-236 BC) when Tissa (brother of Ashoka) apparentsly selected Kalinga as his retirement place. According to Hiuen T-sang (637AD), Ashoka built 10 stupas in Wu-t`-u (odra) in the odivisa (now orissa) region. The excavations in 1981 in the Asia Hills (Ratnagiri-Udayagiri-Lalitagiri) substantiates the early existence of Buddhism in Orissa. There were many mention of a place pu-sie-p`o-k`-ili (Pushpagiri), a known odra establishment  for Buddhists during 7-8th century. Although the sites were known to scolars since 1869 AD, it came to limelight during the 1985 ASI excavations. (Courtesy: Iconography of the Buddhist Sculpture of Orissa)
Idea was to cover the whole of Pushpagiri in the Udayagiri-Ratnagiri-Lalitgiri sequence. Starting from Bhubaneswar and moving in NH5 towards Kolkata (Bhadrak-Balasore), Chandikhol is the place where we took right turn (at Balichandrapur) to move towards Paradeep. Again a left at about 12 km towards Udayagiri.
UDAYAGIRI : It is about 9 kms from the Chandikhol-Paradeep expressway to see the entry point of Udayagiri spot. Udayagiri forms the easternmost peak of the Asia range of hills Northwest of Gopalpur on the Birupa river. It is revealed that this larges buddhist complex was known as Madhavapura Mahavihara.

At the base of the terrace of the hill, is the (pic below) rock cur well well surrounded by a stone terrace with two molithic pillars at its entrance. The well (36 steps) contains an inscription incised twice on the right wall in characters of the 10th century.

Very near to the nwell the natural terrace rises up towards the peak and numerous broken images and sclpturals ruins. It is said that the magnificent doorframe is taken to Patna Museum while sculptures are present at Solapuama temple in cuttack.
This is where the Buddhist education system was flourishing (Ashoka Empire) post Kaliga War

The western side of the terrace stands the ruins of brick mounds of "Dhana Khandi" or granary of paddy.
A long stone paved pathway, votives stupa made of stone and a brick built residential complex comprising of six rooms and a courtyard to the east of the chaitya-griha along with household appliances.


There is yet another brick monastery in the complex which still remains unexcavated. Apart from the two monastery, the remains also consist of a brick stupa, a beautiful stepped stone well with inscriptions on it and rock-cut sculptures at the top of the hill behind.
RATNAGIRI: A small hill known even before its systematic excavation for its rich yield of Buddhist sculptures of the late historical period, along with that of two other hills in the neighbourhood, Lalitagiri (Naltigiri) and Udayagiri (Chanda, 1930). Ratnagiri figures in some late Tibetan texts, aIong them in the history of Buddhism in India by Taranatha .
Ratnagiri has two sites (a) Excavation site (b) Museum (closed on Friday) site. Museum again has four galleries. Gallery 1 has 9th century stone images of Buddha (Avalokitesvara, Khasarpana, Lokesvara, Manjusri, Tara ...), second gallery has stone sculpures and third gallery has small pieces of images and objects. Fourth Gallery has miscellaneous antiquities including terracotta objects.


Excavation site is one of the most talked about site with stories of deep undergraound temple (shifted), Banyan tree, Room without doors, etc.


Even though all three sites are worth visiting, Ratnagiri has the most to offer.


Must see : Take a look at the "development of Oriya script" on the wall of the museum
There is a new resort came up recently just opposite the museum. Toshali Ratnagiri Resorts (http://www.toshaliratnagiri.com/) was just inaugurated during our visit. 

LALITGIRI: This site is on the right side of the NH towards Paradeep and is the third spot for us. This also ranks third in my opinion. Slightly deserted place (may be due to the hot summer) and a long walk (could have been avoided). The attidue of the officials appeared as if they are doing favour to me (sic). 

Has a good planned appeaance
Lalitgiri has the largest stupa and also has a museum

ASI has launched a major conservation effort, and as of 2007, in the process of acquiring more land in the university's vicinity.Once fully unearthed, the site is expected to become a significant international tourist destination in India. There are other Buddhist attractions around i.e. Langudi hills, Kaima hill (unique rock-cut elephant) of Mauryan period.Some more Buddhist sites have also been discovered at Bajragiri, Sarapur and Paikrapur. The Langudi sites are perhaps the largest historic Buddhist complex in India and believed to have the right clue to the location of Pushpagiri and possibly my next destination.

Among the flowers in February

We need excuses to do something or not to do something....... This time it was an excuse of not spending enough time in a park. With the best opportunity around, we picked the backpack again.
This time to DDA’s 27th Annual Flower Show at District Park - Hauz Khas adjoining DLTA, on Africa Avenue Marg, New Delhi (24th February, 2012 to 26th February,2012). Last day of the exibition and we were there in time. Honestly, I do not know atleast 80% of the names.
 Flowers are flowers !!! They bring enough smile on your (my) face......


This bunch was equally bright looking there

I do not know the names of many
Showcasing Creativity  ...........
If you look minutely at these creations you will appreciate the brilliance
Home nice home..... a dream home

Gods Own Country: Part Two

Welcome back...... the pictrip will start from where we left i.e. Aleppy or Alappuzha.

Out in the NH47 we found the backwater cris-crossing each other. Beautiful roads and enjoyble experience all the way. One thing that will worry you if you want to reach somewhere early, the roads are not so wide and will never appear without habitation. The full stretch from Kochi to Kanyakumari is like driving inside a single city only. People effortlessly cross roads.


Backwater on both sides of the road mostly throughout the stretch. Tender coconut on roadsides are not cheap though. I dont remember paying less than 20 buck anywhere.......


We were heading towards Kollam

We stopped at a fairly good restaurant (NH 47 MEVAROM JN ,Karunagappally, Kollam).

The whole stretch is like this


Just at Kerala-TN boarder and this one is also NH. Just before Kanyakumari comes Nagercoil ... extremely crowded road


We reached our Hotel in Kanyakumari... Everyone asked to cancel out Trivandrum stay and extend our stay at Kanyakumari for another day. It is really worth it... We got good in everything.. Kanyakumari will not be remembered by us for good food.... Hearing from others, I now reasised that ours was better.........


View of the main attraction from the Hotel room

Took an evening walk across the shore.... a beautiful park and colorful market

This view tower area has everything. You can see the sunset, a beautiful park, rock view, pleasant walk, a street shopping experience...


Time to retire for an early morning visit to Vivekananda rock

I was told about such a queue everyday. At 7AM this is the length of the wait.......

We took this boat after a log wait to reach Vivekananda rock. Let me tell you about this lifetime experience.. No let me better leave it for you to experience yourself !!

A snap of Thiruvalluvar statue taken from V Rock

Vivekananda Rock: Only to be experienced

Before moving to the Kovalam experience, I must forget to mention about two things first being the Baywatch Wax Museum. I want to forget this since I believe (rather sure) that was a complete waster of our time. The second one was Vivekananda Kendram because our timing of visit was not good and it is a beautiful place worth spending some time.....

Our Last Leg: Kovalam










.......and finally

Gods Own Country: Part One

Just before Delhi celebrated 100 years, in a true Bedouin spirit I planned to leave for Gods own country. Cold was yet to catch Delhi and CAT-3 pilots were yet not on board.

Day 01:Kochi
Kochi airport was pleasantly watching us arrive and leave for FORT Kochi. Kochi has charmed me always. Once you are there only you find this city is comparable with any other metro city. It has possibly the most beautiful airport in India. When you disembark in a beautiful morning, you feel a sence of freshness.


We just had a day to spent in Kochi and the list included taking a public ferry from jetty in the back waters, visiting mattancherry, chinese fishing nets and preferably the Cherai beach. Not to forget a lavish dinner to celebrate something personal.


From High Court Jetty we booked a boat to spend the afternoon. As we did not have anough time in hand the boatman took the advantage of it and just could take us to the Jew Town. It was worth that family joy ride and spending time at the ginger restaurant (more than the other tourist attractions).


Everyone visits Kochi to see the chinese fishing net (Okey... here it is). It is like Delhi Ka Ladoo... Nahin Khaya to Pachhtaya....


I was narrating about this Restaurant (in Jew Town) was more appealing than the synagogue or Dutch Palace. We spend few bucks to have some snacks (also pocketed some)....

The whole day was hectic and refreshing at the same time.... Time to retire after a good dinner

Day 02: Munnar

Morning on day 2 was showing 20 degree C temperature and a nice way to start for MUNNAR. We found a good restaurant en-route. We v already started telling the chef to use vegetable oil instead of coconut oil.


On the way this waterfall (Cheeyapara) and we took a break (actually 1 hour against planned 15 min)


Time to take food (This One is good Looking... not the best in food)



Scenic roads......with nostalgic song ... ohh darling aankhon se aankhen char .....


Finally reached our hotel in Munnar. Munnar is a very small town and most of the tourist hotels are about 15-20 kms from munnar towards madurai. Ours was at Chinnakanal Village and very serene place sorrounded by nature (Forest, lake, waterfall, hills, tea gardens and spice plantations).


Day 03: Munnar
Time to hop around the tea bushes .. not so chill december munnar. I found munnar to be different from Darjeeling in two ways (one) here you dont have to visit a tea garden specifically (two) falls, spice plantations etc are along side (please read my Darjeeling experience in this blog).


Let us call it view point and they really named it so. This is just one of the many picturesque points. We were early there and had some tea from the only mobile stall (yup... tender coconut too... you wonder how tea & coconut together !!!) ... possible..


Just one more.... from the tea garden..... My family spent about 2 hours in the near-sight tea garden in various poses. nice place indeed........ the picture is surely one of the best taken without human footprint. In case you plan to visit... take a similar snap and show me (no rewards please... i am not as rich)


Mattupadi Dam is about 14 kms. Before this dam you have photo point, honey bee hive, forest garden and elephant arrival spot (actually we wasted time here and money too) just before Mattupadi dam. The Dam site is definitely a very interesting site. I resited from eating roadside fish fries since no was else was interested. Good small market to buy cheap knick-knacks.


A delicius dinner to end the day


Day 04: Munnar

 The beautiful route to Spice gardens. Most photographic route till this time............

Interesting spice culture of Kerala. Paying a good amount of money to visit someone's garden is a helpless idea for us. My wife thought otherwise... many herbs, spices never seen before... alright !!